The Man in the Doorway — Reflections on the Hurricane Michael Recovery

Hurricanes come and go. If I’m being honest, my interest level depends on the proximity of my loved ones and their possessions to the storm’s projected cone of impact. I pay more attention to a storm threatening my dad’s Florida condo (occupied or vacant) than a typhoon that threatens the lives of thousands of people in Indonesia. I value all human life, but it’s difficult to become emotionally invested in the fate of complete strangers on the other side of the planet.

As a major storm makes landfall, I watch reporters get pounded by the wind and rain during live updates. It is an exciting and interesting spectacle…the ultimate in reality television. Always a news junkie, I stay glued to my television as the eye of the hurricane makes landfall.

In the days that follow, I hear reports about the devastation and loss of life. I see before and after photos of neighborhoods wiped off the map. I hear inspiring stories of first responders rescuing victims and neighbors helping neighbors. I watch politicians and community leaders offer “thoughts and prayers” and promise to rebuild.

By about the third day after the storm, a funny thing happens. National media coverage stops. They have moved on to the next news story of the day. People outside of the destruction zone have moved on with their lives. That’s to be expected, given our busy lives and short attention spans. As we return to regular programming, we tend to forget the short-term and long-term suffering and hurting of those whose lives have been turned upside down by the storm.

That all changes when you travel into the zone of destruction. My wife and I have had the opportunity to do so in Biloxi, Mississippi (Hurricane Katrina), Beaumont, Texas (Hurricane Harvey) and, more recently, Panama City, Florida (Hurricane Michael). While we build our RV travel calendar around sojourns (sojourning.org), we look for opportunities to do disaster relief when we’re able. It gives our traveling a purpose.

In case you’ve “moved on to the next story,” I’d like to refresh your memory of Hurricane Michael and share four things I’ve learned during our week in Panama City. Hurricane Michael was the third-most intense Atlantic hurricane to make landfall in the contiguous United States in our nation’s history. In terms of maximum sustained wind speed, it was the strongest storm to strike the contiguous United States since Andrew in 1992. It was also the strongest storm on record to ever hit the Florida Panhandle.

Back Yard of a 101-Year-Old Woman

With winds reaching 155 miles per hour, Michael made landfall on October 10, 2018…less than a month ago. It caused 60 fatalities and over $11 billion in damage. Those are facts…statistics. They register for a few seconds…we shake our head…and then we move on with our lives. Or, we can travel to a disaster area, see the devastated property and shattered lives first-hand, pitch in to help with recovery, and be forever changed by the experience.

Lesson Learned #1 – A Badge of Love. One of the neatest aspects of doing disaster relief is the opportunity to meet and get to know the storm victims and your fellow relief workers. One such volunteer is John Powers, a retired firefighter and paramedic from Big Bear City, California. I look up to him physically—at 6’ 7”, he was unable to “fit” inside my Honda Fit! More importantly, I look up to him spiritually. He has a heart as big as his frame is tall.

During a morning devotional, John said that during his firefighting career, his badge meant something. It gave him instant credibility. Whether he was talking to schoolchildren about fire prevention, checking smoke alarms and fire extinguishers, putting out a fire, or rescuing victims at an accident scene, he wore his badge. It mattered. Everyone who saw it knew that John was “legit” and could be trusted, even with their own lives.

John told us a Christian’s “badge” is our love. It gives us instant credibility. We are called to love one another as Christ loved us. (John 13:34) That’s a high standard. If you want someone to listen to what you have to say about God, they must first see Christ at work in your life. They must see the love. If a Christian isn’t consistently demonstrating love (wearing the love badge), he is nothing but a resounding gong or a clanging cymbal. (1 Corinthians 13:1) In short, he’s wasting his time.

We won’t win the world for Christ by building fancier church buildings, winning doctrinal arguments, or rendering judgment on the eternal destiny of our neighbors. However, our neighbors might pause for a moment and listen to what we have to say if they notice our badge…a badge of love.

Lesson Learned #2The Five Phases of Disaster Relief. Each relief worker “processes” these experiences differently. Here are the 5 phases I go through:

  • Phase 1 – Shock. Driving south on Highway 231 toward Panama City, the damage got progressively worse. Downed trees. Crushed homes. Demolished businesses. Debris everywhere. I have never seen anything so devastating over such a wide area, and I am shocked by it. This can’t be real.
  • Phase 2 – Sadness. As you start to meet victims and hear their stories, you can’t help but be profoundly impacted by it. Their tales break my heart. With each one, I give the person a hug, but I really want to wave a magic wand and make it all better. One guy lost his home, his job, and most of his possessions. He’s here living at the church building, volunteering to help others, and starting to rebuild his life. I’m proud of him, but also sad for him.
  • Phase 3 – Dismayed & Disheartened. You start to realize the scope of the damage. What do you say to the person who, in an instant, lost their home, possessions, and job? When there is severe damage on every block in town, and nearly every structure, where do you begin? I would describe it as someone taking one hundred identical 2,000-piece puzzles and dumping them all together on the floor. How will you solve them all? Where do you begin? There are too many pieces! It’s depressing to the core.
  • Phase 4 – Resolve. We got this! We can do this! We have lots of talented, dedicated volunteers from around the country. The Church of Christ Disaster Response Team has an organized process and a semi full of chain saws and every tool imaginable. The Church of Christ Disaster Relief Effort has shipped a wide range of needed supplies for the impacted community. There are portable showers and air mattresses for volunteers to use. Every meal is provided for us. There are scores of other relief organizations around town as well. We’ll solve the 100 identical, mixed up puzzles known as Panama City one piece at time…but solve them we will!
  • Phase 5 – Faith. Wait a minute…God’s got this! God can do this! God is the Conductor and we are merely 4th trumpet. This is not about our talents, abilities, supplies and processes. This is about a God who is bigger than any storm…who knows the thoughts, struggles, and needs of every victim…and who is uniquely qualified to heal the broken-hearted. We can’t do diddly squat without God. However, with God, all things are possible. (Matthew 19:26)
MSgt (Ret) Stanley Laidler

Case in point: I had the unique privilege this week to join with several other volunteers in cutting down trees and clearing debris in the yard of 81-year-old Stanley Laidler. Master Sergeant (retired) Laidler is a faithful Christian, Vietnam War veteran and former Forward Air Controller (“Ground FAC”) who was awarded TWO Bronze Stars…one from the Army and one from the Air Force! After finishing our work for the day, our group (including a dozen students from Freed-Hardeman University) circled up to pray for Stanley and his wife. After the prayer, he talked to our group and shared some life lessons. With tears flowing down his cheeks, he said, “You’re going to have some problems in life. Things won’t always go your way. Things like this storm. But listen to me, young people. God is bigger than any problem! Never give up on God!”

I share these 5 Phases because Phases 3 & 4 are time-consuming, energy-sapping, and unnecessary. Give yourself a few hours for the inevitable Shock & Sadness, then put your faith entirely in God and get to work!

Lesson Learned #3 – Adjust to a New Normal.Tim Neal, the preacher at Palo Alto Church of Christ, preached a powerful sermon this morning. He told the audience, many of whom had lost all or part of their homes, that they would need to adjust to a “new normal”. “As surely as sparks fly upward,” man can expect trouble in this life. (Job 5:7) This town has experienced trouble in the form of Hurricane Michael. For many, the “new normal” would include neighbors they might not see again, different places to shop/eat/get gas, new activities (debris removal vs ball games), possibly new jobs (some worked at Tyndall AFB, which was effectively destroyed), etc.

Rather than fight the “new normal”, we need to find a way to embrace it and go with it. Even those of us who haven’t been impacted by a hurricane can become very comfortable in our routines…and agitated by anything that upsets them. We all face “new normals”—the effects of aging, moving to new places, deaths of loved ones, etc. Will we boldly face the challenges in faith, or cower in fear?

Lesson Learned #4 – Orient to New Opportunities. Tim shared that our “new normal” includes new opportunities. Many people were meeting (and even helping!) their neighbors for the first time. Many had encouraged their friends and neighbors to get free food/clothing/supplies at the church building and to fill out a form to get help with other needs (tree/debris removal, mucking out houses, etc.) Although God wasn’t “behind” the storm, could he be using it to open doors of opportunity for folks to share the gospel? Yes!

In fact, earlier this week, we cleared debris and mucked out the home of a man and woman in their 70’s who will remain anonymous. After circling up and praying for the couple, the man teared up and thanked our group. He then pulled me aside and said that they had a long road ahead toward recovery, but that they weren’t giving up. He also said that he and his wife wanted to “return to church” and asked me several questions about the local congregation and what we believe. I answered his questions, and told him we were helping him because we love God and want to share that love with others. He seemed eager to learn even more, and I couldn’t help but think that maybe our group, collectively, had shown him the love badge that John talked about.

The Man in the Doorway

As Tim finished his sermon this morning, I noticed a man standing in the doorway listening. The man is not a church member, but rather an election official, there to help Bay County residents vote in an adjoining room. (Yes, this congregation offered up a room in their building for voting to occur, which is somewhat humorous given all the emphasis on “separation of church and state.”) I got to thinking about the man in the doorway. If the hurricane hadn’t happened, voting wouldn’t be happening in this church building. That means that man wouldn’t have been in the doorway, listening to a fine gospel sermon.

After services, I went over and introduced myself to the man in the doorway. I asked if he needed anything to eat or drink. “How about a Diet Coke?” he asked. “Coming right up,” I answered. I could be wrong, but I sense an opportunity.

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Hand in Hand

“Hand in Hand”

 When God saw our brokenness,

He made us whole again

When God saw our loneliness,

You were much more than a friend.

 

When God saw the Winter’s chill,

He got to work on Spring

When God placed your hand in mine,

My heart began to sing.

 

Chorus:

Hand in hand, let’s walk this aisle together

Hand in hand, we’ll start a whole new life

Hand in hand, we’ll be with God forever

Hand in hand, I want you for my wife

 

Today, our families come together,

Like yarn in a custom tapestry

As ribbons circle our walking stick

We form a whole new family tree

 

Today, I give my heart to you,

Our love is like this wedding band

Today, God makes our two hearts one

Dear Brenda, may I take your hand?

 

Chorus:

Hand in hand, let’s walk this aisle together

Hand in hand, we’ll start a whole new life

Hand in hand, we’ll be with God forever

Hand in hand, I want you for my wife

 

Together we’re unstoppable

You and I will surely make history

When God put your precious hand in mine

He knew that we were meant to be

 

Say I Do, and everything changes

Just two words, and there’ll be aftershocks

Say I Do, there’s room inside my rig,

Just two words, and you’ll be Mrs. Eddie Cox!

 

Chorus (x2):

Hand in hand, let’s walk this aisle together

Hand in hand, we’ll start a whole new life

Hand in hand, we’ll be with God forever

Hand in hand, I want you for my wife

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They’re All God’s People

“Therefore, as God’s chosen people, holy and dearly loved, clothe yourselves with compassion, kindness, humility, gentleness and patience.”              – Colossians 3:12

On the evening of June 12, 2018, authorities discovered 54 illegal immigrants in a tractor trailer in San Antonio. The people had been smuggled into the country illegally. The truck had air conditioning and water, but there was no food for the people. Five of them were injured.

What is your immediate, gut-level reaction to that story?

A left-leaning liberal might use the story to make a case for open borders. Is it morally defensible for foreigners to have fewer human rights than people who happen to be born in the right place at the right time? Freedom of movement is a basic human freedom. Thus, all people should be free to move about the earth, unrestrained by arbitrary borders. Besides, our country was founded by immigrants and our diversity makes us stronger.

A right-leaning conservative might use the story to make the case for building a wall between Mexico and the United States. Rather than follow the legal immigration process as others have done, these 54 individuals broke the law. They should be jailed, tried, convicted, and expelled from our country. We are a sovereign nation and our borders must be respected.

That brings us to Armando Colunga, a tow truck driver of Mexican descent. I don’t know how he leans politically or who he voted for in the last presidential election. But he watched the story on the news. He saw 54 detained individuals sitting on the ground behind a truck.

He also felt compelled to act. No, he didn’t rush to post a politically-charged rant on social media. He didn’t shake his head in frustration or anger, turn off the television, and go to bed.

Instead, Mr. Colunga, filled with compassion and concern, traveled across town to help. He purchased seven Little Caesar’s pizzas and received permission to cross the yellow crime scene tape. A fireman took the pizzas from him and distributed them to the undocumented immigrants.

The officers told him he didn’t have to do what he was doing.

“No, I didn’t have to, but they’re my people,” he said. “If they were black or African people or white people coming from London… I would have done the same thing. It’s not about race.”

I don’t know whether Mr. Colunga is a Christian, but he exhibited Christ-like behavior. The note from the margin reads: How can you spot true Christians? They’ll be clothed in compassion, kindness, humility, gentleness and patience.

As the immigration debate rages on, we should never place political ideology over faith. While we can discuss immigration policy and what should be done with illegal immigrants, may our first instinct be to get suffering people something to eat and drink. After all, they’re all God’s people.

#FaithInTheMargins

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Alaska Land/Sea Cruise—Arctic Entry #12

Wednesday, June 6

Compartmentalization – a subconscious psychological defense used to avoid cognitive dissonance, or the mental discomfort and anxiety caused by a person’s having conflicting values, cognition, emotions, beliefs, etc. within themselves.

Compartmentalizing can be a good thing. A businessman, fireman, or professional athlete needs the capacity to leave behind a “bad day at the office” and shift to being a loving and nurturing spouse/parent that evening.

Compartmentalizing can also be a bad thing. A Christian who acts like a Christian in church buildings and when around Christians, but lives an unrestrained, immoral life elsewhere, is unwisely compartmentalizing. After all, God sees all compartments. Also, the fireman who had a bad day may, at times, need to open up to his spouse for support and encouragement–rather than compartmentalize.

Today, with this final cruise blog, I’m going to compartmentalize. Specifically, I’m going to mentally separate the cruise, which was wonderful, from the travel home, which was not.

Our Alaska land/sea cruise was all that we had hoped it would be. My takeaways:

1. An Alaska cruise is very different than one to the Caribbean. The scenery is better and more unique (my opinion) and the passengers are older. That said, if you have younger children, want to lay in the sun on the beach, pay less, or be on a louder/younger party boat, head to the Caribbean.

2. Figure out your priorities, and budget accordingly. Princess, like other cruise lines, has 2 priorities: 1. For you to have fun so you’ll return. 2. To separate you from your money at every opportunity. If you want a balcony room, sodas/alcohol, WiFi, more than one night of specialty dining, a spa treatment, one of the ship photographer’s photos, or to go on an excursion, you pay extra for it.

3. Traveling with family and friends is a blast. Everything from meals to excursions is more interesting and memorable. We frequently chose sitting around playing cards and trivia over the many ship activities.

4. I over-packed. I could have gotten by with half as much and just done laundry on the ship. Among many examples, I brought soap and shampoo and every room we stayed in provided that. That said, bring binoculars or a camera with a good zoom…and a good rain jacket.

5. Study the excursion options and pick a few good ones. We had fun hiking and kayaking with the group and going horseback riding on our own. All three allowed us to see more of Alaska than just the touristy ports.

6. Some guides were excellent; others were annoying. The annoying ones had a tendency to talk too much—to fill every inch of silence, rather than allow time for passengers to visit with each or reflect on what they were seeing. Less is more.

7. Bring an inquisitive mind. What can I learn about glaciers, my traveling companions, the waiter’s background, grizzly bear gender, the town’s history, salmon fishing, or the ship’s propulsion system? Try to learn something new every day. Your life—and you, will be far more interesting as a result.

Time now to compartmentalize the cruise experience into a fun, memorable experience I would love to do again someday.

Now, in a different, more shadowy compartment, let’s move on to our journey home. On paper, the plan looked solid. Disembark the ship, fly to St Louis via Chicago, and get a ride to Kyle and Laci’s apartment, arriving at 11 p.m. They would have a couple of hours to shower, repack, love on their dog, and get some sleep, before having to catch a flight the next morning to Greece. Kyle will be teaching classes on the Greek language and culture, and both of them will be chaperoning with Harding University’s Honors Abroad program for graduated high school seniors.

Let the customer service buffoonery begin…

Our disembarking paperwork showed we would have to go through ship customs, rather than travel “direct to bus” like Kyle and Laci, who had booked our tickets together. Wanting to streamline the process as much as possible, we went to customer service at the Princess lobby…

1. Princess Representative #1…”This happened because when you don’t book your flight through Princess, you have to provide your itinerary online. You must not have done that.” (Untrue. We provided and confirmed our itinerary in advance.)

2. Princess Rep #2…”There’s nothing we can do about it now…the names are with the airline.” (Untrue. There’s almost always something you can do; it may just require more effort on your part.)

3. Next morning, Princess Rep #3…”We fixed your problem. You’re now ‘Direct to Bus.'” (Told you it could be fixed. Still, only partially true. You fixed it, but didn’t give us a little sticker saying so, so while disembarking, we were stopped and an additional phone call had to be made.)

Shifting to United Airlines buffoonery…

4. At Vancouver airport, United scale #1 showed our two big pieces of luggage were 3 and 5 lbs under the 50-lb max. (Untrue. Scale at counter showed 1-2 lbs over max, resulting in a last second scramble to transfer clothes between suitcases and backpacks.)

5. United Rep #1 at Vancouver…“Your flight has been delayed. You might miss your connection from Chicago to STL. If so, you’ll be able to get your luggage. For security reasons, they won’t put your luggage on a flight you’re not on.” (Simply untrue.)

6. United Rep #2 at Chicago arrival gate, makes call to a number that is busy, then tells us…”Your plane just departed.” (Untrue.) “Your bags won’t be on it.” (Untrue.) “Go down to our customer service desk underneath the dinosaur statue and they will help you get your luggage.” (Untrue.)

7. United Rep #3 under dinosaur…”Your luggage will be on the next flight to STL in the morning.” (Untrue.) “The baggage office is closed for the evening so there is no way to get your luggage.” (Partially true, but for the wrong reason.) We asked for her supervisor.

8. United Rep #4, supervisor under dinosaur. “Since you missed your flight and will now have to get a rental car to get to STL in the morning so your son and his wife can catch their flight to Greece, I’ll put in a ‘Special Request’ (ooooh) to have your bags retrieved. They’ll be at Carousel 7 within 1-2 hours.” (Untrue.)

9. United Rep #5 at Carousel 7, first competent person. After researching, says, “Your connecting flight was delayed. It’s now gone but your bags are on it and you four could have been on it too. I’m sorry. I don’t know why we told you to go to customer service, rather than the gate.” (I don’t know either, but thanks for at least caring, researching, and giving us an accurate answer.)

Thus, we rented a car from Enterprise at 11 p.m. for a 5-hr drive to STL. The Enterprise customer service was exceptional.

On the road, we called United Customer Service to see if we would be able to retrieve our bags at 5 a.m. at the STL airport.

10. United Phone Rep #6…”No, I’m sorry but baggage claim doesn’t open until 8 a.m. You can’t get your bags until then.” (Untrue.)

11. United Phone Rep #7…”Baggage claim doesn’t open until 6 a.m.” (Untrue.)

12. United Phone Rep #8, second competent person of evening…”Let me check…okay, the United counter upstairs opens at 5 a.m. They have a key and will take you downstairs to unlock the area where your bags are.” Are you sure? “Yes” If they are unwilling can we call you back? “Absolutely, I’ll give you my name.” (100% True!)

After being up all day and driving through the night, we finally retrieved our bags at 5 a.m. at the STL airport. Without hesitation, the United counter lady took us downstairs to unlock and retrieve our bags. Kyle and Laci were able to shower, repack, and not get any sleep. We returned the rental car and had them to the airport at 7 a.m. for their flight to Greece. We returned to their apartment and collapsed on the bed, with an overgrown, attention-starved Bichon Frise resting on my pillow.

In retrospect, we unnecessarily rented a car ($150), got gas ($26) and drove through the night because United Rep #2 in Chicago didn’t take the time to research and give us an accurate answer. Her mistake was simply one in a series of untrue statements and poor customer service throughout the night. I’ll compartmentalize it in the bin called “reasons to avoid air travel whenever possible,” thus leaving my happy cruise memories bin intact.

Still, I’m thankful. Kyle and Laci safely made it to Greece. I drove through the night without falling asleep. Our luggage wasn’t lost. Our plane didn’t crash. Most importantly, Pita the Bichon Frise got a haircut this morning!

Yes, it could have been worse—a guy on the Enterprise shuttle with us was having to drive his wife and small children to Denver that night because their plane had to divert after being hit by lightning, right outside their window. Yikes!

I hope you’ve enjoyed my Alaska cruise blog, at least the first 11.5 entries, before the buffoonery began. If you’ve never been on a cruise to Alaska, I hope you get the chance some day.

After dog sitting for the next two weeks, we’ll travel to Fayetteville, TN for our next sojourn.

Enjoy your summer, and may most of your mental compartments be full of happy memories of loving family, close friends, and competent customer service.

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Alaska Land/Sea Cruise—Arctic Entry #11

Tuesday, June 5th

Last night, we gathered in the Game Room to play cards, trivia, and The Weird Game. Kyle invented the Weird Game several years ago during a family Christmas gathering.

The rules are simple: Each person takes everyone in the family (or friend group, or cruise traveling party) and ranks them from Weirdest to Most Normal. Scores are then compiled. Each ranker gets to define what constitutes weird. Generally, it is the degree to which someone is uninhibited, defies social norms, or behaves strangely.

On my side of the family, my sister Stacy is the undisputed Weirdest member of the family. She’s gone undefeated for the past decade. I’ve seen her relieve herself at restaurants (at the table), moon bicyclists, place my deceased Aunt Mary’s ashes in her nephew’s backpack (to be later discovered at school) and engage in other socially unacceptable behavior. To her credit, she’s also a deep thinker; wise, empathetic counselor; and awesome sister.

So, we played the name game and of the 14 members in our party, the 5 Weirdest were…

1. Tim Genry, Kyle’s father-in-law and the King of Weird.

2. Kyle…more on that in a moment.

3. Laci, Kyle’s wife…as we drove by a large, taxiing airplane near Juneau yesterday, she asked our guide if that was the airport. Bless her heart.

4. Steve, Kyle’s dad…pretty normal, except for when he activated the fart app whenever someone passed by the game room.

5. Janet, Kyle’s mom…5 to 7 times per day, her temperature suddenly rises by 20 degrees and flames exit her behind. Nuff said.

From a purely statistical standpoint, Kyle is the common denominator and has no chance of living a normal life or having normal children. He’ll continue dominating the Weird Game, studying Greek for fun, wearing Chacos 24/7, grooming his dog with dull child scissors, and pooping on trails.

For the first time on our trip, Alaska’s famed rainy weather began. With a leisurely port day in Ketchikan planned, the light drizzle wasn’t a big deal. We are grateful to have had ideal weather for most of our trip and all of our excursions.

After breakfast we disembarked and began a walking tour of Ketchikan. We did some touristy shopping and got coffee at the local cafes.

Among Ketchikan’s claims to fame:

1. One of its two zip codes, 99950, is the highest numbered in the United States.

2. “Salmon Capital of the World.”

3. Home of the Misty Fiords National Monument. (The “i” in “fiords” is pronounced “y,” as with Iellowstone National Park.)

4. Has the world’s largest collection of standing totem poles.

That’s all good stuff; but, in light of today’s theme, what about the Weird stuff? What about some history or attractions that would make Stacy or Kyle almost blush?

That answer came soon enough as we walked to an area at the mouth of Ketchikan Creek. The area earned Ketchikan a measure of infamy during the first half of the 20th century for a red-light district known as Creek Street, with brothels lining either side of the creek.

We approached 20 Creek Street (pictured) where Ketchikan’s most infamous resident, Beatrice Green, began to ply her trade in 1947. For half a century, this house, like so many others along the creek, was a place where both men and fish came to spawn… the fish once, many of the men repeatedly.

In 1954, when authorities brought an end to open prostitution on Creek Street, most of the ladies left town, retired, or moved to other neighborhoods. Police commissioner Gordon Sumner, noticing Miss Green hadn’t left, told her, “Miss Green, you don’t have to put on the red light. Those days are over. You don’t have to sell your body to the night.”

She refused to listen. Instead, Beatrice Green and a few others simply went underground.

Following the crackdown, she played a game of cat-and-mouse with the local police, entertaining “gentlemen callers” when she thought she could get away with it; lying low went the heat was on. When the Navy was in town, sailors would reportedly travel by/under water at high tide, and sneak into her home at a secret opening in the floor.

A little weird, no?

After returning to the ship, we celebrated our final dinner onboard at Cafe Bayou, a “specialty dining” location. Among many good eating experiences on this trip, this meal was the best. I had a salad with avocado slice and a small bowl of jambalaya for appetizers, a 22-ounce monster porterhouse steak for the entree, and a creamy chocolate and peanut butter concoction for dessert.

After dinner, we made our way to the Princess Theater to hear Janet sing in the Voice of the Ocean finals. Although she didn’t win the top prize, she got the crowd going with a wonderful, spirited performance of Dancing Queen. Two of the three judges spun their chairs for her and had good things to say. I’m very proud of my Little Dancing Queen for having the courage to compete, and kayak, on this cruise.

Tomorrow, our cruise will end and I’ll share one more post with details from our final day, travel home (total nightmare), and a few cruise takeaways. Yes, it’s time to resume our normal lives, traveling the country and living in a van down by the river. A life more than a few people have called…a little weird.

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Alaska Land/Sea Cruise—Arctic Entry #10

Sunday, June 3rd

We woke up and found ourselves in Juneau, the state capital. It is the second largest city in the U.S. by area, just behind Sitka and ahead of Wrangell and Anchorage, all 3 of which are also in Alaska. (Coming in at #5, the largest city by area in the continental U.S., is Jacksonville.)

We boarded a bus and headed out for the final excursion on our trip—a 4-mile hike to Mendenhall Glacier! We were fortunate to have a guide born and raised in Juneau, who provided insights on living in Alaska, wildlife, and glaciers.

This would turn out to be my favorite excursion because my favorite mode of wilderness transportation is by foot. Our hike took us through the 16.7-million acre Tongass National Forest, the largest National Forest in the U.S. It is part of an even larger temperate rain forest—the largest on the planet.

The scenery was stunning and the hike could be described as moderate to difficult, depending on your conditioning. There were a few sections with steep rock stairs, aided by handrails. Along the way, our guide pointed out all relevant flora and had us taste edible, citrusy spruce tree tips. Even more interesting was a fairly fresh beaver paw, presumably torn from the rest of its body by a bear, wolverine, or T-Rex.

Our climb was rewarded with an awesome view of the 13.6 mile long Mendenhall Glacier. The glacier has what is called a negative glacier mass balance, meaning its accumulation from snowfall is less than its ablation from melting and calving. (I challenge each of you to use ablation in a normal conversation today.) Put another way, the glacier is shrinking, not unlike most of the passengers on our cruise. In fact, it has retreated 1.75 miles since 1929. Our guide pointed out how far the glacier extended when he was a kid as compared to where it is now.

I appreciated that our guide didn’t launch into a guilt-inducing lecture on global warming and the degree to which mankind contributes to it. The celebs who preach the most about global warming tend to have the highest carbon footprints. That said, God gave us a beautiful planet and we should make reasonable efforts to conserve and protect it.

I also find it interesting how God can take something we consider bad—in this case, global warming and glacial retreat—and do something good with it. For example, the Mendenhall Glacier’s retreat has:

1. Created Mendenhall Lake, a nursery for salmon, cutthroat trout, and other fish.

2. Revealed 1,200-2,350-year-old trees and stumps, with roots and bark still attached. Scientists are able to study past ecosystems from a pre-glacial time.

After returning to the ship, we played a round of Trivial Pursuit and then Janet left for her Voice of the Ocean rehearsal. She learned that her competition includes a professional singer who performed at 138 gigs last year and a lady who has released 2 singing CDs. Even so, I doubt these competitors can steer a kayak as well as Jan.

We finished the evening with our second formal dinner, a Motown Musical Show, and a Marriage Match Game Show (similar to the Newlywed Game).

That latter show featured three couples who have been married 1, 20, and 50 years. The men were asked, “You arrive in Ketchikan and your wife realizes she forgot to pack her bra. She sends you into town to buy one for her with no further instructions. What size do you get?”

The youngest guy was closest, off by a single letter. The middle guy guessed a 42DD rather than the actual 40D. The oldest guy, married 50 years, guessed a 36B versus the actual, glacial 42DD. He lost the game, but received a $25 onboard credit for an eye exam.

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Alaska Land/Sea Cruise—Arctic Entry #9

Saturday, June 2nd

Last night at midnight, we ordered 2 chocolate chip cookies and a pot of coffee. This was partly because we wanted a snack, partly because “we could” and partly to commemorate one of my favorite cruise memories from about 20 years ago.

We were on a Disney cruise in the Caribbean, it was midnight, and Jason and Kyle (5 and 6 years old) were hungry. I introduced them to the room service menu, where they spotted “giant cookie” and I spotted coffee. A phone call and 10 minutes later, room service delivered a pizza-sized cookie, milk, and pot of coffee.

The boys were flabbergasted! The very idea that, with a simple phone call, a “free” giant cookie would show up at our door…at midnight… was more than they could bear.

With that memory firmly planted in his mind, Kyle has taken advantage of several midnight room service chicken Caesar salads this week. Not to be outdone, Landon has primed his muscles with midnight PB&J’s, Laci has gotten a chicken club with fries, and Caleb has gotten several cheeseburgers…all at midnight…all “for free.”

This morning, we headed into Skagway, our first port of call. The town, a popular touristy stop for cruise ships, was part of the setting for Jack London’s book The Call of the Wild. John Wayne’s film “North to Alaska” was filmed nearby.

The area around modern-day Skagway was inhabited by Tlingit people from prehistoric times. On at least two occasions, our traveling companion Lauren had to be reminded they were not Klingons, a fictional extraterrestrial humanoid warrior species from Star Trek. Honest mistake.

The Tlingit hunted the land, fished the waters, and became prosperous by trading with other coastal and interior people. I learned that the Tlingit people still inhabit the far northwest part of British Columbia and Canada’s southern Yukon Territory.

I also learned it’s inaccurate—“intellectually lazy” as our guide put it, to refer to these people as Eskimos. They are Tlingits. Eskimo is a French term for “those who wear snowshoes.” So, calling them Eskimos is like referring to Southerners as Comedores de Sémola de Maíz or “those who eat grits.” On second thought, that’s pretty accurate.

Skagway made its mark in more recent history in 1897 when gold was discovered in Canada’s Yukon Territory. People from across the globe raced to the Klondike hoping to become rich beyond their wildest dreams.

Thousands boarded ships, steamed up Alaska’s Inside Passage, and disembarked at Skagway or Dyea. Skagway’s waterfront was a chaotic scene of pitched tents, shouting stampeders, neighing horses, and barking dogs. Streets were quickly laid out and buildings and wharves constructed; the town even boasted of having electricity, running water, and telephone service in 1898.

From Skagway, stampeders traveled the 45-mile White Pass Trail, infamously nicknamed Dead Horse Trail because pack animals perished in large numbers. Of the estimated 100,000 prospectors who set out for the Klondike, only 30,000 made it and only a handful of those became rich. Most who became rich ultimately died in poverty, having squandered their wealth in other risky, get rich quick schemes.

Today’s real lesson, though, is about conquering fears. You see, my wife is terrified of water. While taking swimming lessons and spending considerable time in water was part of my childhood, the same cannot be said for Janet. Anything deeper than bath water makes her anxious, and the thought of being submerged in water makes her nauseous.

Thus, it took more than a little coaxing to convince her to go on today’s kayaking trip on Chilkoot Lake. I reminded her that:

1. This kayaking outfitter, over many years of operation, has never had a customer submerge in water, much less drown.

2. She would be wearing a life preserver.

3. Even if we were to tip over, the famed piranhas of Chilkoot Lake typically target the larger of the two kayakers…which would be me.

4. I had gone horseback riding.

We boarded a ferry for a scenic 40-minute ride to Haines. Glacier-fed waterfalls poured off the mountains before us. While Skagway and other ports of call are somewhat touristy towns, Haines seemed more like a typical Alaskan town. In addition to being known for its underwear, Haines has the highest concentration of bald eagles in the world between October and February. We saw several of them flying high in the sky.

From Haines, we took a bus to Chilkoot Lake, one of the best red salmon fishing locations in Alaska. But today wasn’t about salmon in the water, but Janet on it. My brave little warrior, with her heart racing, stepped into the back of our 2-person kayak. We pushed off with our fellow kayakers and Janet steered us around the beautiful lake. Our guide showed us the salmon spawning area and told us about wildlife, glaciers, and the Klingons who once inhabited the area.

I don’t know that Janet will take up scuba diving any time soon. But on one magical afternoon, on a glacier-fed lake in southeast Alaska, she decided to stare down her fears. She dug deep, boarded a kayak, and paddled her little heart out. Amidst the food, fun, and sightseeing of this amazing adventure, her guts in tackling her greatest fear might have the most lasting impact.

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Alaska Land/Sea Cruise—Arctic Entry #8

Friday, June 1st

This morning, we entered Glacier Bay National Park! Thirty National Parks down, thirty to go!

What an amazing place! The National Park Service describes the park like this:

“From the bottom of the deepest glacial fjord to the summit of its highest peak, Glacier Bay encompasses some of our continent’s most amazing scenery and wildness. It is a land reborn, a world returning to life, a living lesson in resilience. If we ever needed a place to intrigue and inspire us, this is it.” Well said.

As one of the largest protected biospheres in the world, it takes a specially trained captain to navigate its waters. So, a small boat approached and said pilot boarded and took control of the ship for our time in Glacier Bay.

There are many glacier viewing options—behind the tinted glass in the Horizons dining room, on your private balcony (if you want to splurge for a private balcony), with Rose on a raft as Jack sinks to the bottom of the ocean, or on one of the outside decks.

Armed with a camera with a 200x zoom lens, I spent much of the day on the forward upper deck. I spotted various wildlife, including bald eagles, a whale blowing his nose, 3 moose, and some seals, and took pictures of the various mountains and glaciers.

There is blue plexiglass along much of the ship’s perimeter. This is great for blocking wind and general viewing, but not for taking pictures, unless you use a gap between the panels (which limits your field of vision) or go above the panel (which is only possible if you’re over 6 feet tall).

I noticed several short, grey-haired, older women (who comprise roughly 45% of the passengers on this cruise) struggling to get a good photo behind the plexiglass barrier…so I offered my 74” assistance. Next thing you know, a line of short, sweet gray-haired ladies formed to hand me cameras to get glacier shots over the blue panel.

I then asked one lady if she knew how to take panoramic shots on her iPhone. She didn’t, so I raised her phone above the panel and took a rather stunning pano glacier shot. She looked at it and nearly pee’d herself with excitement. She had no idea her phone could do that. She showed the pano shot to her 4 or 5 traveling companions and they, too, pee’d themselves, right there on the deck…and then handed me their phones. Tomorrow night, we’re meeting in the Crooners Bar so I can teach them how to access email on their phones. Good times.

As we stood in awe before the 40-story high, mile wide, 21-mile long block of ice known as Margerie Glacier, we heard thunderous cracks of ice calving into the ice blue water. I don’t know why they call it calving because, from my angle, it looked nothing like a bovine birth.

The only thing that could break us away from this magnificent sight was our assigned dinner time. Specifically, tonight was a special seafood night, and we feasted on King crab legs, rainbow trout, and other sea dishes. For the 4th consecutive night, I got Creme Brûlée for dessert. Why? Because the stuff just melts in your mouth—a process known as calving.

After dinner, our traveling party assembled in the Princess Theater to hear comedian Jeff Burghart, who was hilarious. After the show, Janet and I retired to our cabin.

“So, what song are you going with for The Voice of the Ocean finals?” I asked.

“Dancing Queen,” she answered. “They want me to get the crowd into it.”

Quite fitting. After all, we’re having the time of our life… (all together now) Can’t wait to see that girl… watch that scene… I’m diggin’ my Dancing Queen.

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Memories Are All We Have Now

A camera hung around his neck and a large case drooped over his shoulder as my grandfather entered our duplex. The grandkids have always affectionately called him “Grandy,” but for the past few years I have referred to him only as “K.O.”—for Karl Owsly. His dear wife, “Granny,” followed closely behind him. After the customary hug and kiss greeting, she informed us of the pictures of our mailbox and front yard that K.O. had just taken. As she rattled off an apology for forcing Janet to cook dinner for them, she scanned the room in search of the next picture.

“Karl, there’s that cross-stitch picture that Edith made them for their wedding…get a picture of it.” K.O. licked his lips (as he has the habit of doing every three breaths) and snapped away. The next stop on our photo safari was the bedroom and Granny instantly eyed the quilt she had made for us. K.O. snapped a picture of it just as the order to do so was leaving her mouth. Her fingers traced a stitch on the quilt and she sighed as she explained how she had made a mistake on one of the seams. It amazed me that she continued to quilt with hands that had been crippled by arthritis.

Having run out of rooms to photograph, the ladies headed for the kitchen to discuss the pros and cons of frozen lima beans and K.O. and I sat down in the living room and he began to talk. There is something very special in the conversations I have with him now. We are both going through transitions in our lives and there is a lot on our minds. Whenever he talks, there is something inside of me that hangs on to every word he says.

There is a poem by Erma Bombeck taped on the inside of my Bible about the things that she would do differently if she had the chance to live her life over again. The verse that always seems to stay with me is the one about how she wished she had listened more to her grandfather ramble on about his youth. Well, I doubt I’ll ever have that same regret because I cherish every word that comes out of K.O.’s mouth.

He told me a lot of things that afternoon. Some of the stories I had heard before, and some were being told in a slightly different way. He told me about how my dad and Granny’s father used to argue over whether or not the South had won the Civil War. He told me about his invalid father and how he and his brothers had been given the task of supporting the family at an early age. I listened in amazement as he told me what his monthly pay was at his first job, and how Granny had been so excited when they moved to Ohio and had more money to buy groceries. I had heard most of the stories before, but this time there was something different in his voice. He emphasized certain points very carefully, as if he were telling the stories for the last time and wanted me to get every detail straight.

As he spoke to me that afternoon, I just sat there trying to soak up every last word. And then I asked about his camera. He told me he had gone through several rolls of film in the past few weeks on my wedding, his grandchildren, and the rest of the family. He told me that he probably wouldn’t be around much longer and he wanted pictures of everything. And then he began to teach me a lesson that I will never forget.

In words very similar to these, he said, “Steve, the thing that has made me the happiest in life is to feel that I am a productive person, that I am needed by someone for whatever reason. When I was young, I felt like the burdens of my family were on my shoulders and I was needed. As an adult, I worked for Goodyear and people depended on me. I have always been involved with the church, and I feel like at times I have made a difference. And ever since I have been retired, the need to be needed has been one of the driving forces in my life.” He licked his lips and went on. “To feel that I am doing something positive for my family means more to me than anything in the world—it’s what keeps me going. And I know that before long, I’ll be leaving this world to move on to a better place.”

As tears began to form in my eyes, he looked down at his camera and said, “Yea, Steve, memories are all we have anymore.” There was a silence in the air that was deafening. He looked deep into my eyes and said, “As long as these pictures are around, I hope you kids will remember Granny and me and all the fun times you had with us.”

There were so many things I wanted to say, but I just couldn’t form the words in my mouth. I wanted to thank him for all the talks we had had and all the encouragement he had given me for as long as I can remember. He has always been such an inspiration to me and the thought of him no longer being around was tearing me apart.

After a few minutes of silence, our wives called us for dinner and we were broken from our trance. The rest of the evening was filled with the usual conversations, but my mind was in a different place. After dinner, K.O. took a few more pictures and then we said our good-byes.

I believe my grandparents have several years of life left in them. And I’m sure there’ll be more lessons learned. And I suppose I’ll hear some of K.O.’s favorite old stories about my dad a time or two more.

But, one of these days, they will be gone. As much as that realization hurts, I can’t deny it. But as far as I’m concerned, my grandfather has nothing to worry about because that is when his most productive years will begin. Because every time I hear his name, or look at the gold watch that Goodyear gave him for 25 years of service, or see a picture of him, it will all come back to me. I will remember all of the fun times we had together playing miniature golf in Ohio, weathering a snowstorm in New Jersey at Christmas, and posing for a picture at my wedding. I’ll remember all of the lessons that he has taught me, and all of our experiences together will come to life again…and memories will be all that I need.

by Steve Johnson, June 4, 1988

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Alaska Land/Sea Cruise—Arctic Entry #7

Thursday, May 31

Decisions, decisions, decisions!

A nifty Princess phone app allows us to access the daily calendar of events, send messages to each other, and get general information.

The calendar of events offers a little something for everyone…

– Want to knit and knat? Join the Knitters and Knatters at the Crooners Bar.

– Want to relax and be entertained? Sit in the hot tub on the top deck while watching The Greatest Showman on the giant screen…or join the bridge or Texas Hold’Em tournaments.

– Want to waste money? Flush a $20 bill down your cabin commode or head to the casino.

– Want to learn something? Go to the Digital Photography Basics Seminar, the Fruit and Vegetable Carving Demonstration, the Detox for Health Energy Seminar, the Medi Spa Seminar: How to Look 10 Years Younger, or the Harmonica Class.

– Want to get in shape? Head to the Zumba class, walk the ship’s perimeter, lift weights, ride an interactive exercise bike, get a therapeutic massage, or go line dancing.

The above constitutes 1/3 of the available options…on just the first morning!

What caught my attention, though, was the Interdenominational Bible Study at 0830 hrs at the chapel. 4 Reasons:

1. I love studying God’s word.

2. I was curious as to what assortment of people might show up for such an event.

3. I’m on a hunt for interesting stories/people /ideas for a devotional book I’m writing.

4. I don’t Zumba.

Of the 2870 passengers and crew on board, 8 of us showed up for the Bible Study. A few minutes went by and nothing happened. Everyone just sat there. A few more minutes…still nothing. I glanced at my calendar and noticed the event said “Unhosted.” In other words, we’d been given a time, place, and purpose—an opportunity. But the rest was up to us.

Unable to stand another second of awkward silence, I turned around and asked the group if they wanted me to lead the discussion and they agreed. For the next 45 minutes, I led a discussion on my favorite passage—Ephesians 2:10. For the gist of what I covered, check out my blog entry from a couple years ago at…

https://www.bigsteveandliljan.com/masterpiece-on-a-mission/#comments

I appreciated the contributions from the class—people hailing from California, Georgia, Wisconsin, and the Philippines. In a world so full of division and political strife, it was encouraging to sit down with like-minded people from different countries, backgrounds, and faith communities and feast on God’s word together.

After watching an insightful movie/documentary with Janet on Alaska residents entitled The Spirit of Alaska, we made our way to the massive Horizons buffet. Fruit, cheeses, salad, meats, made-to-order omelettes, sushi, breads, vegetables, desserts…the list goes on and on!

At lunch, I learned that Janet and Tami had attended a shopping seminar…which is akin to Van Gogh attending a painting seminar. For $25, they received a booklet with coupons for free gifts on board and at various ports of call. For a moment, I thought about questioning how free gifts cost $25, but didn’t want to get thrown overboard.

While some of our gang played cards in the games lounge, I rode the exercise, soaked in a hot tub on the upper deck, and got an ice cream cone from the ice cream bar. I suppose exercising and then eating ice cream makes as much sense as paying $25 for free gifts.

At 1630 hrs, we gathered our cameras and binoculars and headed for the outside deck to take in the wonder and majesty of The Hubbard Glacier! I’d seen many pictures of it and other glaciers before, but to pull up beside it is stunning! This is why you might choose an Alaska cruise over something in the Caribbean. It was a sight I’ll never forget.

We reassembled for our group dinner on one of what they call “formal nights”…which for our group is loosely defined as no swimwear, chacos, or exposed belly buttons. After dinner, we took in a musical production called Encore, featuring singing, dancing, and an orchestra.

Speaking of singing, we noticed an event on the calendar called The Voice of the Oceans auditions. I told Janet, “You need to try out. This is your dream.”

“I’m thinking about it, but it makes me nervous. I’m not sure I’m good enough,” she replied.

“You’re very good, it’ll be fun, and besides, it’s up to the audience to decide who is good enough.”

After more encouragement from our group, Janet (aka contestant #4) nervously took the stage, dedicated her song to me (Awww!), and belted out Shania Twain’s Looks Like We Made It. She did a wonderful job, the audience cheered wildly, and she was voted into the finale! Go Janet! So now she’ll get a voice coach, head shots, and get to perform with an orchestra in front of all the passengers! That’s my girl!

As a guy who believes in living life to the fullest, taking chances, and pursuing crazy, bucket list dreams, I couldn’t be more proud of my wife. By setting her fears aside and taking the stage, she has already won!

And if she happens to win the whole thing, I’ve got a free gift in mind for her. It cost us $25.

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Not All Who Wander Are Lost